Despite the economic and political liberation, art and design in the 19th century United States was still primarily influenced by the works of the French and British. The company that changed the trend and created its own unique and iconic style, which became influential not only in America, but in the entire world, was Tiffany & Co. Founded in New York City in 1837 by Charles Lewis Tiffany and Teddy Young, Tiffany and Co. was a stationary and fancy goods emporium and specialized in the sale of fine glass and porcelain decorative objects. Soon after its founding, in the 1840’s Tiffany & Co. began the production of its own jewelry, for which it gained a remarkable worldwide reputation. A reputation that is held in high regard, even over 150 years later.
Designed by Paulding Farnham in 1901, this Renaissance Revival enamel and gem-set longchain is a stunning example of Tiffany & Co.'s leadership in the world of jewelry. Gold and platinum mounted, pink, cerulean blue and sea green enamel and cabochon ruby, cat's-eye chrysoberyl, sapphires and European-cut diamonds, cushion-cut sapphires, faceted emeralds and pearls, this Longchain is one of Tiffany's masterpieces of Renaissance Revival.
The personal contribution of Charles Lewis Tiffany to the success of the company and for the development of the American jewelry industry is astounding. His expert knowledge and skill in the making of silverware and jewelry led to the creation of the finest and unique designs at the time, which were deeply influential to followers and admirers alike. Soon after the foundation of the company the famous Tiffany Blue Box was introduced to become one of the symbols of the company with the color being named after it. A remarkable contribution of Tiffany & Co. to American trade is the first retail catalogue published in 1845. The company gained an ever growing popularity and expanded its operations to London and Paris due to the high demand of its goods.
The Abduction of Proserpine, was the name given to this three-layer sardonyx cameo brooch made by Tiffany & Co. depicting Pluto being hit by Cupid's arrow and carrying off Proserpine in his chariot drawn by four horses.
In 1851 Charles Lewis Tiffany introduced the silver sterling standard that later became the United States Sterling Standard. The elegant and exquisite silverware designs of the company had the fashionable at the time classic curvilinear were decorated with Rococo shell and scroll stylized motifs. The unique feature of the flatware manufactured by Tiffany & Co. was the ornamentation of the entire piece rather than just the handle. The Japanese artistic and crafting influence that was particularly significant in the Victorian Era inspired the company’s designers to create a unique flatware pattern named Audubon. The exuberant and gentle organic motifs of plants, birds and insects decorated the elegant pieces. The Audubon silverware line has retained its popularity and it is a top selling line even today.
A Tiffany & Co., Art Deco platinum and diamond wristwatch with a silvertone dial with Arabic numerals concealed beneath a pierced lid bezel and bead-set with marquise and circular-cut diamonds.
In 1861 Tiffany & Co. was commissioned to design and produce the jewels for the inauguration ceremony of Abraham Lincoln and created some of its most lavish and notable pieces for the time – the seed-pearl jewelry suite. 1886 was the year in which the company made its most important mark in history with the introduction of the Tiffany Setting. The six-pong diamond solitaire engagement ring became iconic for its naturalistic beauty and is even now every girl’s dream jewel. The focus on the diamond, with its raised band makes it all the more dazzling and highlights its lavishness.
In 1902 Louis Comfort Tiffany took over the company, which was capitalized at over $2 million – an astonishing figure for the time. Being one of the most influential artists at the time renowned for its stained glass works he gave the common name to the Art Nouveau in the United States – the Tiffany Style. Louis Comfort Tiffany opened the Tiffany & Co. Art Jewelry Department, which produced some exceptional jewelry pieces with the use of new techniques and materials. The enameling of gold and silver items involved various innovative methods. Tiffany was the first to use lava glass as a jewelry material. The colors, shapes and ornaments of his works were a flight of ingenuity and fantasy and were inspired by the Byzantine and Oriental cultures and arts. In the following years the jewels of Tiffany & Co. became the symbols of the Art Deco style with their geometrical forms and the elegant decoration with diamonds of all cuts and sizes.
Art Deco bracelet of platinum with sapphires and diamonds by Tiffany & Co.
In the beginning of the 20th century Tiffany & Co. had already established itself as the leader in the jewelry, silverware and ceramics markets setting world standards for diamonds and platinum purity. With the development of the company it commissioned some of the most famous designers of the time setting the world’s trends. Tiffany’s trendsetting continued through the 20th century. In 1961 Jean Schlumberger’s Ribbon Necklace was worn by Audrey Hepburn in the presentation photographs for the movie Breakfast at Tiffany’s. The notable designer had worked for the company since 1956. In 1974 the modernistic sculptural jewel designs of Elsa Peretti were introduced and created a worldwide sensation.
In this new century Tiffany & Co. has revived some of its iconic designs to give them a new, even more dazzling, style and supremacy such as with the Tiffany Legacy Collection in 2003. In 2007 the Tiffany Novo ring, with remarkable brilliant cut diamonds, the cut of which was inspired by the famous Tiffany Diamond was first introduced.
At present the remarkable jewels of Elsa Peretti and Paloma Picasso can be found in the numerous famous Tiffany & Co. shops around the world.
