Cartier Jewelry and Design

by AntiqueNut on September 1, 2009

in Cartier

Jewelry making is a remarkable craft on its own that has influenced the arts and designs throughout history. However, it has never been the same ever since the establishment of the Cartier jewelry workshop in Paris in 1847. The company that successfully depicted the moods and trends of the different periods and created its own unique and recognizable style grew from a small studio to one of the most prominent companies in the world. Soon after Louis-François Cartier took over the workshop of Adolphe Picard, the new era for jewelry design began, which was later to be significantly developed by his son Alfred Cartier and grandsons Louis, Pierre and Jacques Cartier.

The circular engine-turned case of this 18 karat gold compact set with flower motifs in cabachon emeralds, sapphires, and rubies with full-cut diamond accents is a fine example of the elegant jewelry produced by Cartier.  The gold compact opens to mirrored compartments.  This jewelled piece is signed and holds the French maker's mark and guarantee stamps.

The circular engine-turned case of this 18 karat gold compact set with flower motifs in cabachon emeralds, sapphires, and rubies with full-cut diamond accents is a fine example of the elegant jewelry produced by Cartier. The gold compact opens to mirrored compartments. This jewelled piece is signed and holds the French maker's mark and guarantee stamps.

In 1899 the workshop moved to the prestigious and lavish shopping street Rue de la Paix, which was extremely popular with Parisians. Around the Cartier Maison a cluster of other studios on the street and Place Vendome developed into what is now the heart of the jewelry industry in France. With Louis Cartier coming in to charge of the workshop, his innovative and masterful jewelry making techniques and designs changed the ideas of decorative arts and fashion forever. He drew his inspiration from the different trends in art and design and his jewelry work reflected adequately the moods of the epoch, but at the same time he successfully utilized the classical designs created by his prominent forefathers. Cartier studied carefully all aspects of jewelry making to come up with a unique garland style influenced by the Rococo, Neo-Classical and Romanticism movements that were eclectically combined at the beginning at the 20th century. He set the standard in the industry by using exquisitely weaved platinum, which allowed for the diamonds to shine with their full dazzle highlighting the beauty of the jewels.

In 1904 the British branch of Cartier was asserted Jeweler of Kings for King of Jewelers by the future King Edward VII to later become the official jewelry supplier of the Court. In 1904 Louis Cartier came up with a wrist watch prototype that would become the primary model for the famous watches the company produces to this day. Cartier jewelry designs were considered one of the leaders of the Art Deco movement by employing its founding ideas as early as 1906. Cartier was inspired by all the dynamism and colorful vibrancy of the time and his works were influenced by the clean cut geometrical forms of Cubism and German Expressionism. His outstanding platinum, gold and diamond brooch with an exquisite Neo Gothic design is one of the most famous pieces of the time. In 1912 Louis Cartier came up with one of his most fascinating and admirable inventions – the mysterious clock, which is in line with his style and is still a favorite of the company’s extravagant clients.

The Art Deco period from 1914 to 1938 was one of exceptional achievements for Cartier, which came to set the world jewelry standards with their unique designs. Louis Cartier was fascinated with the exotic cultures of Latin America and Africa and Egypt as well as with the Native American arts. The panther spot motif became iconic for the House of Cartier. Remarkable jewels such as watches made from platinum, diamonds, rubies and other precious stones such as onyx and jade depicted the distinctive pattern. The brooches with ornate heads of Indian chiefs were also extremely popular. The famous Cartier Trinity ring and bracelet with three singularly shaped bands one made from platinum, the other from yellow gold and the third from pink gold were introduced as early as 1925.

18 karat gold and diamond pendant necklace by Cartier of Paris.  Designed as a drop set with full-cut diamond melee and suspended from braided chain.

18 karat gold and diamond pendant necklace by Cartier of Paris. Designed as a drop set with full-cut diamond melee and suspended from braided chain.

In the years after WWII Cartier retained its leading position as a jewelry maker offering innovative and sensitive designs based on its established Cartier style. In 1969 the famous Burton/Taylor diamond was produced by Cartier for Elizabeth Taylor’s 40th birthday. In 1977 the company launched the vermeil watch series with the accessories receiving contemporary dials. In the following year the initial watch prototype of Louis Cartier was redesigned to create the renowned Santos de Cartier watch. The successful line of Cartier watches continued with the 1985 Pasha model, which became the symbol of power and elegance in the modern business world. The 1995 Pasha C watches reset the standards of grandeur and luxury with their massive and whimsical design. The Tank Americaine watch of 1989 and the Tank Française of 1996 became true Cartier classics with their exquisite curved rectangular design and stylish strap embodying luxury and excellence as well as the trends of the new era. In the new millennium the Cartier jewelry designers drew their inspiration from the exotic natural world and the undiscovered cultural treasures of China for their Panther and Le Baiser Du Dragon collections.

Throughout its long leadership in the accessory industry Cartier has not confined itself to the production of jewels and watches, but they have also launched numerous other quality product lines such as Cartier leather accessories, elegant lighters and Cartier perfumes to complement superbly the exceptional style of their clientele.

{ 3 comments… read them below or add one }

Lydia September 9, 2009 at 11:01 am

this is a very unique and beautiful design, i loved it! :)

Darlene September 15, 2009 at 7:35 pm

Lovely work … not a question. Cartier’s Art Nouveau pieces are some of my favorites.

Susan September 22, 2009 at 1:52 am

Thanks so much for the comment and information regarding my champagne bucket “situation.” :-)
Enjoyed this article very much and forwarded the link to a friend of mine who also appreciates Cartier jewelry.
Susan

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